What to wear, what to carry, and how to choose it — practical advice for walkers of all levels
There is no single definitive list of what a walker should carry — the right kit depends on where you're going, how long for, what time of year, and what the weather is doing. A day walk on a summer lowland path calls for very different equipment to a multi-day mountain route in October. What follows is a practical guide to the main categories of walking gear, with honest advice on what matters, what to spend money on, and where you can afford to be more relaxed about cost.
The foundation of all outdoor clothing — and the most important concept to understand
The layering system is the cornerstone of dressing for the outdoors. Rather than relying on a single heavy garment, you wear multiple thinner layers that work together — and crucially, can be added or removed as your exertion level and the weather change. A walker who sets off on a cold morning will warm up quickly on a steep ascent; the ability to shed a layer and pack it away is essential. Three layers, each with a specific job:
The base layer's job is to move sweat away from your skin and keep you dry. Never wear cotton — it absorbs moisture and holds it against your skin, making you cold and increasing the risk of hypothermia. Choose synthetic fabrics (polyester, nylon) or merino wool. Merino is naturally odour-resistant and temperature-regulating, making it excellent for multi-day trips. Synthetics dry faster and are usually cheaper.
The mid layer traps warm air and provides insulation. A fleece is the classic choice — lightweight, quick-drying, and warm even when damp. For colder conditions, an insulated jacket (down or synthetic fill) provides more warmth for less weight. Down is warmer and more packable but loses its insulating properties when wet; synthetic fill performs better in damp conditions and is usually more affordable.
The outer layer is your shield against wind and rain. It needs to be waterproof and windproof, while ideally allowing moisture vapour (sweat) to escape from inside — this is what breathability means. The outer layer does not provide significant warmth by itself; that is the mid layer's job. Shell jackets come in various weights from lightweight packable options to burly, fully-featured mountain jackets.
The most common mistake beginners make is setting off in a single thick fleece or heavy jacket. You'll overheat on the climbs and get cold when you stop. Invest in three good layers and learn to manage them — it makes a bigger difference to your comfort than any other single piece of kit.
Understanding hydrostatic head ratings, breathability, and DWR treatments
Waterproofing is measured by hydrostatic head (HH) — a laboratory test that measures how much water pressure a fabric can withstand before it leaks. The higher the number, the more waterproof the fabric. Here's what the ratings mean in practice:
| Rating | Protection Level | Suitable For |
|---|---|---|
| 1,500mm HH | Light showers only. Not suitable for sustained rain or serious walking. | |
| 5,000mm HH | Moderate rain. Adequate for lowland walking and day trips in reasonable weather. | |
| 10,000mm HH | Heavy rain. A good all-round rating for regular hill walking in the British climate. | |
| 20,000mm HH | Heavy sustained rain and wind. Suitable for mountain days and exposed conditions. | |
| 28,000mm HH+ | The most demanding conditions. Used in expedition and alpine garments. |
A truly waterproof fabric that lets no air through at all would be like wearing a bin bag — you'd be soaked in sweat within minutes. Breathable waterproofs use membranes (such as Gore-Tex, eVent, or own-brand equivalents) that block liquid water droplets from entering but allow water vapour (sweat) to escape.
Breathability is measured in grams of moisture transmitted per square metre per 24 hours (g/m²/24hr). A rating of 10,000g is adequate for most walkers; 20,000g+ is for high-output activities like running or fast mountain ascents.
Most waterproof jackets also have a DWR (Durable Water Repellency) coating on the outer fabric. This causes rain to bead up and roll off the surface rather than soaking into the fabric. When a jacket starts to "wet out" — absorbing surface water rather than shedding it — the breathability suffers, even if the waterproof membrane is still intact.
DWR wears off with use and washing, but can be restored by tumble drying on a low heat or by applying a specialist DWR reproofer spray or wash-in treatment.
Worth knowingA hardshell jacket is your primary defence against rain and wind on the hills. Look for taped seams (stitching is a weak point — fully taped seams seal every stitch hole), a well-designed hood that adjusts to fit over a helmet or hat, and pit zips or venting for breathability on steep ascents.
Worth investing inA lightweight packable jacket (often called a windshell or wind jacket) is invaluable for days when you need wind protection but heavy rain isn't expected. Softshell jackets offer stretch, comfort, and moderate weather resistance — ideal as a versatile mid-to-outer layer in drier conditions.
Mid-range spendAn insulated jacket — filled with either down or synthetic wadding — acts as your mid layer for cold conditions, or can be worn as a standalone jacket on cold but dry days. Down is warmer for its weight and packs smaller; synthetic insulation performs better when damp. Body warmers (gilets) provide core warmth without the bulk of sleeves — useful when you need insulation but freedom of arm movement.
Worth investing inThe single most important piece of kit you will buy
Your boots are the most critical piece of equipment you own. Ill-fitting boots cause blisters, foot pain, and can ruin a walk or even lead to an accident on rough terrain. Always buy boots from a specialist outdoor retailer where staff can advise on fit — never buy walking boots online without trying them first if you can help it.
Full-height, stiff-soled boots designed for rough terrain, boulder-hopping, and carrying a heavy pack. Most offer waterproof liners (Gore-Tex or equivalent) and a Vibram or similar grippy rubber sole. Essential for mountain days, long distance trails, and any route involving wet or rocky ground.
Look for a snug fit around the heel with wiggle room for toes, and always try boots with the socks you intend to wear walking.
Worth investing inLower-cut, lighter, and more flexible than full boots — walking shoes and trail runners suit lower-level paths, well-maintained tracks, and dry summer conditions. They offer less ankle support and less waterproofing but are more comfortable over long distances on good ground. Popular with experienced walkers who don't need the support of a full boot.
Mid-range spendSandals have two roles for the walker: at the campsite after a long day, when your feet need to breathe and recover; and on easy, dry summer paths where a full boot would be overkill. Specialist hiking sandals with contoured footbeds, adjustable straps, and grippy soles are far more capable than ordinary sandals. They are never appropriate for rough, wet, or mountain terrain.
Budget-friendly optionNew boots must be broken in before any serious walk. Wear them around the house, then on short local walks, building up gradually over several weeks. Attempting a long mountain day in brand new boots is a reliable recipe for blisters. Some modern lightweight boots require little breaking in; traditional leather boots need considerably more.
Underrated, essential, and worth spending money on
A good pair of walking socks can be the difference between a comfortable day and a day ruined by blisters. Walking socks are designed with reinforced heels and toes, padded soles, and moisture-wicking fibres. Never walk in cotton socks — they hold moisture against the skin and cause friction. Wool (particularly merino) and synthetic blends are far superior.
Always carry a spare pair on any walk longer than half a day — changing into dry socks at lunchtime is one of life's simple pleasures.
Worth investing inLightweight socks suit warm weather, trail shoes, and low-level walking. Mid-weight socks are the workhorse choice for most hill walking — enough cushioning for a long day without overheating. Heavyweight socks are for winter mountain days in stiff boots, providing maximum cushioning and warmth.
For multi-day trips, merino wool socks are worth the extra cost — they stay fresher longer, resist odour, and can be worn for two days if needed without discomfort.
Lightweight, waterproof, and winter options explained
Lightweight, quick-drying walking trousers are the standard choice for three-season walking. Made from stretch synthetic fabrics, they move freely, dry quickly when wet, and pack small. Many convert to shorts via zip-off legs — useful for variable weather days. Avoid denim entirely — heavy, slow to dry, and chafes badly when wet.
Budget-friendly optionWaterproof overtrousers are pulled on over your regular walking trousers when rain arrives. They should be loose enough to go on over boots (look for full-length side zips), light enough to pack into your rucksack without taking much space, and breathable enough to prevent overheating. Often overlooked by beginners, but essential kit for any mountain day or prolonged wet weather walking.
Mid-range spendFor cold winter days, softshell trousers or fleece-lined walking trousers provide insulation as well as wind resistance. In truly severe conditions — particularly on winter mountain routes — waterproof overtrousers worn over a softshell layer provide both warmth and weather protection. Gaiters (not trousers, but worn with them) are essential in deep snow or boggy winter conditions to keep snow and water out of your boots.
Worth investing inChoosing the right size and fit for the job
Rucksack capacity is measured in litres. The right size depends entirely on what you're doing — a day walk needs a very different bag to a week-long backpacking trip. Fit is as important as capacity; a well-fitted rucksack carries the weight on your hips, not your shoulders.
For a standard day walk, a 20–25 litre rucksack carries everything you need comfortably: waterproofs, food, water, first aid, map, and spare layers. Hydration reservoir compatibility (a bladder with a drinking tube) is useful for longer days. Lighter and more streamlined than larger packs — easier to move in on rough terrain.
Budget-friendly optionFor weekend trips or long days where you're carrying extra kit — camping gear, more food, extra clothing — a 35–45 litre pack is the most versatile size. Look for a hip belt that transfers weight to your hips, a back system that allows airflow, and multiple compartments for organisation. Always pack the heaviest items close to your back and high up.
Worth investing inFor extended backpacking, wild camping, or carrying full camping and food supplies for several days, you'll need a 55–75 litre pack. At this size, fit becomes critical — always get a professional fitting at a specialist retailer. A pack that doesn't fit properly becomes a serious problem on a long trip. Many expedition packs have a separate bottom compartment for a sleeping bag.
Worth investing inMost rucksacks are not fully waterproof, even if described as "water-resistant." Always use a rucksack liner (a light dry bag inside the main compartment) or a fitted rucksack cover (kept in the lid pocket, ready to deploy) to protect your kit in sustained rain. Keeping your sleeping bag and spare clothing in a dry bag inside the pack is good practice on any mountain day.
Not just for older walkers — poles benefit everyone on rough terrain
Trekking poles reduce the load on your knees — particularly on descents, which are harder on the joints than ascents. Studies suggest that poles can reduce knee load by up to 25% on downhill sections, which over a long mountain day makes a significant difference. They also improve stability on rough or slippery ground, help with river crossings, and can be used to pitch certain lightweight shelters.
Many experienced walkers who resisted poles for years eventually become devoted converts, particularly on the descents.
Adjustable poles are more versatile than fixed-length — shorten them on steep ascents, lengthen them on descents. Aluminium poles are heavier but more durable and cheaper; carbon fibre poles are lighter but can snap under sudden lateral stress. Flick-lock systems are more reliable than twist-lock systems in cold or wet conditions.
Set the height so your elbow is at roughly 90 degrees when the pole tip touches the ground. Use the wrist loops — they take the weight so your grip can be light.
Mid-range spendThe items you hope never to need — and must always carry
Carry a compact walking first aid kit containing blister plasters (Compeed are the gold standard — pack plenty), adhesive dressings, a triangular bandage, wound closure strips, antiseptic wipes, pain relief, and any personal medication. Blister prevention is more effective than treatment — address a hot spot the moment you feel it, before the blister develops.
EssentialA head torch is essential kit even on day walks — unexpected delays can mean returning in the dark. Modern LED head torches are lightweight, long-lasting, and powerful. Choose one with a red light mode (preserves night vision), a brightness of at least 100 lumens for walking, and consider a rechargeable model. Always carry spare batteries or a charged unit. A torch held in the hand is far less useful than one on your head leaving your hands free.
EssentialA group shelter (bothy bag) is a large, lightweight bag that a group of walkers can crawl into together in an emergency — providing immediate wind and rain protection and helping to prevent hypothermia while waiting for rescue or weather to improve. They weigh very little and pack very small. For solo walkers, a survival bag (heavy-duty orange polythene) is the minimum; a bivy bag offers more durability.
Essential for mountainsYou lose a significant proportion of body heat through your head. A warm hat and gloves weigh almost nothing and pack flat — there is no excuse for not carrying them on any hill walk at any time of year. Lightweight liner gloves are useful in milder conditions; heavier waterproof gloves or mittens are essential for winter mountain days. A neck gaiter or buff is one of the most versatile bits of kit you can carry — hat, scarf, balaclava, or face covering as required.
EssentialChemical hand warmers and body warmers (air-activated heat packs) provide emergency warmth and are worth carrying on cold days, particularly if anyone in the group is more susceptible to the cold. They are a last resort, not a substitute for proper layering — but in a genuine emergency they can make a significant difference to the comfort and safety of someone who has become cold or wet.
Budget-friendlyFor remote mountain walking, wild camping, or solo adventures in serious terrain, a Personal Locator Beacon (PLB) or satellite communicator (such as a Garmin inReach) is worth serious consideration. A PLB sends a distress signal to emergency services via satellite when activated. Mobile phone coverage in remote areas of Scotland, Wales, and the Northern Pennines can be non-existent — a PLB works anywhere on earth.
Consider for remote walkingFuelling the adventure — staying hydrated and fed on the hill
Dehydration degrades performance, judgement, and morale faster than almost anything else. Carry at least 1 litre of water per person for a half-day walk; 2 litres for a full day. In hot weather or on strenuous routes, carry more. A hydration reservoir in your rucksack makes it easy to drink on the move. Electrolyte tablets are useful for long or hot days.
EssentialIn the British uplands, running water from a mountain stream above the treeline and away from grazing animals is generally safe to drink, but this cannot be guaranteed. For multi-day trips or in any doubt, a water filter (such as a Sawyer Squeeze or LifeStraw) or purification tablets remove bacteria and protozoa. Filtration bottles combine both into a single carry item. Boiling water for one minute is the most reliable method if you have a stove.
Recommended for wild campingWalking burns significant calories — a full mountain day can require 3,000–4,000 calories. Carry more food than you think you'll need. Good walking food is calorie-dense, requires no preparation, and doesn't deteriorate in a rucksack: nuts, dried fruit, energy bars, flapjack, cheese, and crackers are all reliable staples. A proper lunch stop is good for morale; a flask of hot soup or tea on a cold day is transformative.
A good vacuum flask keeps drinks hot for 12 hours — invaluable on cold days. For multi-day or camping trips, a lightweight backpacking stove (gas canister or spirit stove) and titanium or aluminium cook set opens up the full range of hot food options and allows you to melt snow for water in winter. Keep it simple: one-pot meals are easiest to prepare and clean up in the field.
For overnight tripsTents, sleeping bags, and the essentials for a night under the stars
For backpacking, weight is everything — a lightweight one or two-person tent of 1.5–2.5kg is the target for most hill walkers. Look for a fully waterproof flysheet (5,000mm HH minimum; 10,000mm+ for mountain use), a sewn-in groundsheet, and a design that can be pitched quickly in wind and rain. A freestanding dome tent is more user-friendly; a tunnel tent packs smaller and weighs less. Always pitch the tent before your trip to familiarise yourself with it.
Worth investing inSleeping bags are rated by temperature — the comfort rating indicates the temperature at which an average woman sleeps comfortably; the lower limit the temperature for a man. In practice, buy a bag rated lower than the temperatures you expect to encounter, as ratings are tested under controlled conditions. Down bags are warmer for their weight and pack smaller; synthetic bags are cheaper and perform better when damp. A sleeping bag liner adds warmth and keeps the bag clean.
Worth investing inA sleeping mat is not optional — without insulation underneath you, the ground will leach heat away from your body regardless of your sleeping bag's warmth rating. Inflatable mats (self-inflating or pump-up) are comfortable and compact but can puncture; foam roll mats are indestructible and cheap but bulky. The insulation value of a mat is measured by its R-value — aim for R3+ for three-season use, R5+ for winter.
Essential for campingWhat to pack before you leave the car — for a standard hill walking day
The equipment you need should always be matched to the adventure you're about to embark on and the conditions you expect to encounter. But the British hills have a habit of confounding expectations — the forecast changes, the mist comes down, the easy path turns boggy. Always be prepared for the unexpected. It costs nothing to carry an extra layer or an emergency shelter, and it could make all the difference.